Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for Burberry, unveiled in September 2018, was more than just a runway show; it was a statement of intent. The Spring/Summer 2019 collection wasn't merely a presentation of clothes; it was a meticulously crafted vision aimed at uniting Burberry's diverse heritage with a forward-thinking, inclusive aesthetic. Tisci, known for his dramatic and often darkly romantic designs at Givenchy, embarked on a bold reimagining of the British heritage brand, aiming to bridge the gap between generations and create a cohesive, contemporary identity for Burberry. This article will delve deep into the collection, analyzing its key elements, its reception, and its lasting impact on the Burberry brand.
The collection, titled "Burberry Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear," was a significant departure from the brand's previous aesthetic. While retaining certain quintessential Burberry elements like the iconic check pattern, Tisci injected a new energy, a modern sensibility that resonated with a younger demographic while simultaneously appealing to the brand's loyal, established clientele. This delicate balancing act was arguably the collection's most significant achievement.
A New Era of Inclusivity:
One of the most striking aspects of the Spring/Summer 2019 collection was its pronounced emphasis on inclusivity. Tisci’s vision extended beyond simply showcasing diverse models; it permeated the very fabric of the collection's design. The range of styles catered to a broad spectrum of tastes and body types, moving away from a singular, idealized image of the Burberry woman (and man). The collection included everything from sharp tailored suits and trench coats – classic Burberry staples, reimagined with a contemporary twist – to more relaxed, streetwear-inspired pieces. This juxtaposition of styles created a dynamic and relatable collection that transcended age and style preferences. The casting of the models further solidified this commitment to inclusivity, reflecting a diverse range of ethnicities, ages, and body shapes.
Reimagining the Iconic Check:
The Burberry check, a symbol synonymous with the brand, was reinterpreted in several innovative ways. While the classic pattern remained present, Tisci infused it with a fresh perspective. He deconstructed it, recontextualized it, and incorporated it into unexpected pieces. The check appeared in unexpected places – subtly woven into fabrics, emblazoned across oversized bags, and even incorporated into footwear. This clever manipulation of the iconic check demonstrated a respect for the brand's heritage while simultaneously modernizing it for a contemporary audience. The reimagining wasn’t just a superficial change; it was a strategic move to demonstrate that the check could be both timeless and contemporary, appealing to both established and new customers.
The Fusion of Classic and Contemporary:
Tisci masterfully blended classic tailoring with contemporary streetwear elements. Sharp, structured silhouettes were juxtaposed with relaxed, oversized pieces. The collection featured impeccably tailored trench coats, a Burberry signature, but these were updated with unexpected details – perhaps an asymmetrical hemline or an oversized collar. This blending of styles created a unique tension, resulting in a collection that was both sophisticated and effortlessly cool. The use of unexpected materials also contributed to this fusion. Luxurious fabrics like cashmere and silk were combined with more casual materials like denim and canvas, creating a fascinating interplay of textures and styles.
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